They should develop a powder for this load that smells better. Scratch and sniff the photo on your monitor for a sample of the smell.
If you look you can see the smoke coming off it. It was hot. It had been hotter, but it took a minute to get to the camera.
Later in the day edit, ’cause Jonno wants info on the lights:
The lights are Surefire G2 LED’s, very simple and light. The “on” switch is at the rear of the light. The mount is a “scout mount” http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26772/Product/SCOUT-MOUNT
The base for the mount is a Midwest Industries front sight mount. Actually only one of the twins has that mount; the other is slightly different.
I was trying to get a decent flashlight position and keep the weight as far down as I could. I think I was successful. I first tried 11 o’clock. After experiencing how effective the “thumbs forward” grip with the carbine is, I figured it would be just about right. It actually worked pretty well. The reason I moved it over to 1 o’clock was that it was easier to operate while shooting either right or left handed. Now I tend to hook the left hand over the top of the handguard while (whilst in Australian?) pointing with the support index finger. Makes point shooting work better. The thumb is already in a good position to activate the light. I really like it.
I have also used a pistol light with a rotating tailcap “on” switch mounted on the handguard of a carbine at about 5 o’clock. It was built for more of a conventional style hold on the handguard. I don’t like it AT ALL. I have an issue with flashlight AD’s with that setup and it doesn’t work with the way I shoot now.
Since I haven’t gotten a new rifle that solved all the world’s problems yet (and I emphasize YET), I need to work with the stuff I have, quirky though it may be. One of the things that has always vexed me about my Sako 75 is that it throws the cold bore shot high. My perception is that it is consistent in its deviation. If it is consistent in its deviation it can be accounted for. If it can be accounted for then it can be made to group better through intelligent intervention. Until someone capable of this comes along I will have to try for myself.
Continuing on with our discussion of determining the range to target, we move on to reticle rangefinding. Using a reticle is based on the physical properties of the reticle- that it will subtend a consistent angular measurement. To say it another way, the reticle will always be a visual representation of a particular unit of angular measurement. That means if your reticle has a milliradian (mil) scale, you have the ability to measure a mil on a real object that you view through the scope. If your scope has a reticle that subtends an inch per hundred yards, you can also view that on a real object. Even if you have a duplex reticle, at a given power your reticle will have a consistent measurement of an angle. You’ll have to measure it precisely, but it can be done.
Object size in yards x 1000/Object reading in mils = Distance in Yards
Object size in inches x 27.78/Object reading in mils = Distance in Yards
Object size in inches x 25.4/Object reading in mils = Distance in Meters
One of the things that is important to know if you really want to be able to hit your target is the distance between you and it. There are several ways to determine your range to target. Some are more useful than others. Guessing a number between 1 and 10 is probably among the least useful. I’m going to discuss several over the next few days that might work better.
The object of the range day was to test ammo. My friend Scott and I had three varieties of Hornady TAP ammo chambered in .308 Winchester, the 110 grain with the V-Max, the 155 A-Max, and the 168 A-Max. It was right around 100° with no shade to be had. We had the range to ourselves.
We conducted the tests from 100 yards. Scott was shooting his Remington LTR which he mounted in a McRee Chassis. I was shooting the Remington 700, which has a Krieger barrel, wears a McMillan “Baker Special” stock, and is adorned with an IOR 2.5-10×42 FFP scope. I will be doing more shooting with this rifle while I save for a new primary rifle to write about on the blog here.
The Remmy doesn’t throw the cold bore. I find that although the rifle action is uninspiring, its performance is intriguing.
Part of the superb bennies (“benefits”) of being among the world’s top bloggers, aside from the lucrative pay, hob-nobbing with celebrities, having to wade through piles of free rifles, glowing feedback from adoring fans (people on Reddit are usually amazed at my writing), etc…, is that the blogger program lets me see a portion of the search words that someone typed in to reach my blog. Some of the search terms are actual questions. I used to just look at them and say to myself, “Hmmm.”
- .338 Edge
- .338 Federal
- .338 Lapua Magnum
- .338 Marlin express
- .338 Norma Magnum
- .338 Remington Ultra Magnum
- .338 Ruger Compact Magnum
- .338 Winchester Magnum
- .338-06 A-Square
- .338-378 Weatherby Magnum
- .340 Weatherby Magnum
If you’d read the original article the picture was from, you’d know what kind of chicken it is now wouldn’t you?
I had a bad month with #1. I had fallen for the Sako 75 mostly due to its smooth action, but I also appreciated the trigger and detachable magazine system. The scope mounting system, which seems like a good thing in concept, was like a bit of a pain, but until mounting up the Roadale 20 MOA rail it didn’t really get to me. Discovering that the bolt stop pin was broken, and likely had been for quite some while, was not confidence inspiring, but I also wondered if my bolt technique had been excessively brutal. The final nail in the coffin was that pillar bedding did not improve the rifle’s precision to a significant degree. So begins the long and arduous process of saving up and selecting a new rifle.