Since I introduced the RS1 sling last December I have sent out over 160 of them. In that time I have not released any further information about it, mostly because I was trying to get caught up with orders. I thought it was time to put out some more details on it.
I have received a lot of questions as to how the sling is set up and adjusted, and if it can be adjusted at all. Both the loop and the overall length can be adjusted. I send them out with both the loop and the overall length set long so it can fit a wide variety of rifles and shooters. When I put one on my rifle, I need to cut a bit off of each end, just to make it fit my rifle. All the webbing ends are burnt prior to construction, so after cutting they’ll need to be re-burnt.
Setting the rough loop length:
Pull webbing from the center of the metal slide to shorten the loop section. A general reference to get your loop length in the ballpark is to make the end of the loop even with somewhere in the area of the trigger and pistol grip. For a more detailed treatise on setting the loop length, see this post.
Slack after setting the loop length:
I designed the sling so that it would have no loose ends hanging out. This helps both in terms of form and function. Before cutting the slack off the sling there are a couple things to consider. First, you won’t be able to add material back on in the event that you should cut it too short. I recommend taking a few days of trial and error to make sure you have it where you want it. Second, the keeper that covers the loose end is made to fit over the stiff, four ply section section of webbing.
Where I cut the slack off:
If you want to be able to use the sling on multiple rifles that have different lengths to the forward swivel/stud, you will need to set it for the longest one and tuck the slack back into the keeper.
The end will need to be burned to keep it from fraying. If you don’t have a hot cutter, use one of these:
I strongly advocate using a half twist in the sling setup (click the link for explanation). It helps work things out correctly when wrapping the support hand. It also helps orient the loop in an ideal position to receive the arm:
Putting in the half twist for a right handed shooter:
One thing that I haven’t shown much of yet is how to use the RS1. It’s so simple that it seemed as though I didn’t need to.
Holding the rifle by the pistol grip, release the support hand and thrust it through the open loop:
A trick that helps minimize the drag of clothing on the loop is to move the arm laterally in relation to the loop during insertion. My theory in coming up with this is that sliding lengthwise along the webbing won’t predispose it to rolling or displacement, instead allowing the arm to slip through. As I slide the part of my arm beneath the elbow through the loop, I move the arm toward the swivel.
At the elbow, I reverse direction and move it down, which also traps the loop high on the arm.
I used the rapid shutter mode thingy on the camera to capture the following sequence. The advertised rate of speed is 5 photos per second. There were 19 photos in the sequence, which depicts transitioning from standing at port arms, unslung, to the rice paddy prone position slung up. By that math it took just under 4 seconds to reach a “ready to fire” position, just over 2 seconds from start to looped up and support hand wrapped. Excuse me if I look silly in some of the photos. It’s a throwback to my guitar days.
Clench support fist to convert this to a close quarters technique
I realize this looks stupid…
This looks like some weird crane technique in neko ashi dachi.
Contest: Name this Tai Chi pose.
If there are glaring omissions in my explanation, don’t hesitate to ask for clarification.
Thanks for reading.